La Guiraude is only produced when Maxime and Antoine Graillot judge the vintage worthy of their plot selection on the rounded pebbles of northern Crozes-Hermitage. 2022 earned it, with one particular feature: at 12% ABV, it is the freshest vintage of this cuvée for several years. Where 2020 delivered concentration and depth, 2022 plays on finesse and tension: a slightly early harvest from vines in balance, whole bunches fermented with the estate's indigenous yeasts, and ageing in old Burgundy barrels that refines without ever weighing the wine down. The result is a northern Syrah of rare precision.

The colour is deep ruby with violet glints. The nose is built around blackcurrant and blackberry, lifted by black olive, violet and a subtle smoky touch characteristic of the granite and pebbles of La Guiraude. On the palate, freshness dominates the overall impression: the texture is elegant, the tannins silky, the acid backbone lively and taut. Where the 2020 calls for an hour in a decanter and a substantial dish, the 2022 opens up more readily, without losing any of its capacity to age. Long, saline, spicy finish.

Roast lamb with herbes de Provence, guinea fowl with wild mushrooms, pressed-curd cheeses. Serve at 16-17°C. Ageing potential: 10 to 15 years. James Suckling 95.